Southern Sky Notes

Notes · Dark skies

Best Stargazing Spots in the North Island

The North Island has most of the country's people and most of its light, so finding a truly dark sky takes a bit more planning than it does in the Mackenzie. It can be done, though, and a few places are as good as anywhere in New Zealand on the right night. Here are the areas we keep coming back to, roughly from north to south, with the practical details that make or break a night out.

Aotea Great Barrier Island

If you live in Tāmaki Makaurau, this is the obvious first choice. Aotea is a certified Dark Sky Sanctuary, there is no mains power grid, and on a moonless night the Milky Way casts faint shadows. The Auckland glow sits low on the south-western horizon but barely touches the rest of the sky.

Access is by ferry or small plane, so it is a weekend trip rather than an evening one. Several campsites and much of the island's back country are managed by the Department of Conservation, and the DOC Great Barrier Island page covers huts, tracks and campgrounds. Bring a red torch, and be aware that roads are narrow, winding and unlit.

Northland's west coast

The coast from the Kaipara up past the Hokianga toward Ninety Mile Beach has very little settlement, and looking west over the Tasman you have an unbroken dark horizon. The Kai Iwi Lakes area and the Hokianga heads are both rewarding. The north end of the country is mild, so it is pleasant observing in winter, but sea air brings dew and haze. Expect your optics to fog quickly on still nights.

The Coromandel

The peninsula's east coast beaches are popular in summer, and the towns can be bright with holiday lighting. Inland valleys and the quieter northern end are far better. The ranges block much of the Auckland and Hamilton glow from the eastern side. Check tides if you plan to set up on a beach, and watch for fog in the valleys after a still, clear evening.

East Cape

Te Tairāwhiti and the coast around the East Cape lighthouse are among the darkest parts of the North Island simply because so few people live there. Roads are long and slow, and slips after heavy rain are common, so check conditions before travelling. The rewards are big: a dark sea horizon to the east and north, and in winter the core of the Milky Way high overhead.

Tongariro and the central plateau

The volcanic plateau gives altitude, which means less atmosphere to look through and often steadier air above the inversion. The flip side is temperature. At 1,000 metres or more, frost is possible in any month, and winter nights regularly drop well below zero. Snow can close roads with little warning.

If you go:

  • Dress as you would for a winter tramp, even in summer.
  • Park only in proper pull-offs, never on the shoulder of State Highway 1 on the Desert Road.
  • Leave someone your plans, as mobile coverage is patchy.
  • Watch for weather systems from the west building over the mountains.

Lake Taupō's southern shores and the quieter roads around the national park are good options when the cloud stays away.

Wairarapa and Cape Palliser

For Wellingtonians this is the standout. The Wairarapa International Dark Sky Reserve covers the southern half of the region, and the drive over the Remutaka Hill puts the city glow behind the ranges. Martinborough is a comfortable base, and the coast road south toward Ngawi and the Cape Palliser lighthouse gives a dark sea horizon to the south, which is ideal for aurora watching.

The coast road is exposed and partly unsealed toward the end. Southerly fronts arrive fast, and the wind can be brutal. Check the forecast and turn back if conditions turn.

Hawke's Bay and Manawatū hill country

These are less famous but worth mentioning. Back-country roads inland from Napier and Hastings, or up in the Ruahine foothills, get well away from town glow. Many good spots are on private farmland, so ask permission rather than climbing a fence.

If you can't get away: Stardome

For Aucklanders who want to see something tonight, Stardome Observatory in Maungakiekie One Tree Hill Domain runs planetarium shows and telescope viewing when the weather allows. It is not a dark site, but it is a great introduction and a good place to ask questions.

Practical notes for any North Island site

  • Weather: the North Island's maritime climate means cloud can form fast. Look for clear nights behind a cold front, and have a backup site in a different direction.
  • Moon: plan around new moon for faint objects. A first-quarter moon sets around midnight, which leaves dark hours afterward.
  • Dew: high humidity is the norm. Dew shields, spare lens cloths and a way to keep eyepieces warm all help.
  • Safety: tell someone where you are going, park well off the road, and use red light so you don't dazzle passing drivers or other observers.
  • Respect: many dark places are on or near marae, farmland or conservation land. Leave gates as you find them and take your rubbish home.

If you want the background on which places are formally certified and what the labels mean, see our guide to New Zealand's dark sky places. For nights when the aurora might reach the North Island, our notes on reading an aurora forecast are a good companion.